This is optional, you can simply add melted butter to the dough but I like to brown it. Cook it in a skillet over medium heat until you start to see brown bits at the bottom. Stir until the butter goes quiet, stops sputtering and there’s a lot of brown bits at the bottom. Set aside to cool.

In a small pot, add the 1 cup milk and the ⅓ cup flour, whisk well. Turn heat to medium and cook while stirring until it forms a thick paste. Turn off heat.

Add the warm milk and yeast to the bowl of a stand mixer, stir to combine. Add the sugar and whisk then add all the ingredients, including the roux (but not the butter). Knead on low until the dough starts to come together in a ball.

Add the butter (it’s okay if it’s melted or if it’s soft) and knead for about 10 minutes. The dough will at first separate and look very loose but as you knead it will come together again in a ball around the hook and will look shiny and smooth. Transfer to an oiled bowl and let rise in the fridge overnight or until it has almost (but not fully) doubled in size.

Divide the dough into two halves. Prepare two greased loaf pans with parchment paper, you can use metal clips to hold it in place. Set them on a floured countertop and cover with a tea towel while you make the cookie dough.

Melt the butter in the microwave then whisk in the sugars until smooth. Add the egg, salt and vanilla and whisk until well combined. Fold in the flour, baking soda and powder. Fold in the chocolate.

Roll out one of the dough halves to about 8x12 inches. Spread half the cookie dough over the dough in an even layer (use your fingers and an offset spatula to help it along). Roll up the dough from the shorter side, trim edges if necessary, and slice in half lengthwise. Wrap the two halves around each other in a twist. Set in one of the loaf pans. Repeat the process with the other dough half. Cover with a tea towel and let rise for about an hour, until you can press the dough and it leaves a slight indentation when springing back.

Preheat the oven to 350. Bake the two loaves for about 40-45 minutes, tenting them with foil if the tops are over-browning. Breads are done when a digital thermometer inserted into the center registers 190 F.