Filed under: Babkas
June 11, 2020

Milk Bread Chocolate Babka

Milk bread style chocolate babka made with the japanese tangzhong method to yield the softest, most tender bread swirled with a deep dark chocolate filling. 

4.88 from 32 votes
Yield: 2 loaves
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You’re going to love this super soft version of chocolate babka: because it’s made milk bread style. 

There are two ways to babka: the more commonly associated brioche dough (most recipes you find use this, similar to Bread’s Bakery babka) versus challah, a softer bread that uses oil, not butter, as a fat. The latter is probably how babka originated, with home bakers spreading jam or cinnamon over leftover challah (apparently the bread met chocolate in new york, source). 

Recipe Origins 

I am not jewish or Eastern European, and I did not grow up eating babka (although, I very much wish I had!). Like most people, I learned of it from the internets. This popsugar version, is the first babka I made about 5-6 years ago. They had called it chocolate challah although the link has now disappeared (I now think it’s Alexandra Cooks’ recipe because the picture is the same). I had made it once and instantly fell in love. This biased me early on to what babka should feel and taste like. I don’t think a full two months has gone by since summer 2015, when I haven’t made ‘chocolate challah’ and every single time it has been more than well-received by my peoples.

We made a trip to NYC a few years later and tried the famous Bread’s Bakery babka (this was during peak babka trend of 2017 ), and, well, sad to say, it was very different than I imagined and I didn’t fall in love (although have you tried their cheesecake? To die for!). It was dense, almost croissant like in texture, which I get is kind of the point. But we preferred the soft and tender challah base that I made at home. If you are familiar with any of my bread recipes, you know they are usually variants of a challah/enriched dough. 

 

What is milk bread?

Hokkaido Japanese milk bread is made with a tangzhong: a water (or water & milk) roux, ie. a thick paste made from heated flour and the liquid. The roux method is unique to this dough and yields a very tender result, this is because the starches are gelatinized without forming gluten. On this topic, Dini, via The Flavor Bender writes: “The starch molecules in tangzhong absorb far more liquid than it would at room temperature. When this is added to the bread dough, the tangzhong adds MORE water to the dough, and a stable, soft matrix that creates a cushion-like, spongy texture in the final baked product.”

If you’ve seen pictures of japanese milk bread rolls, you know that the roux method results in a super fluffy and tender interior. Some adjectives used to describe this bread I found from various sources: “lofty, feathery white bread”, “soft, springy texture”, “wonderfully tender” and, “Soft, fluffy, airy, tender, springy, pillowy….” I think you get the picture. 

Recipe Ingredients

Flour: bread flour or a high protein all purpose flour. 

Milk: Whole or 2% is fine. Skim or 1% could work but they might be lacking a bit of fat, same with non-dairy milks. Don’t use buttermilk here as it could curdle in the tangzong step.

Eggs: large and at room temperature. Extra large eggs will lend too much eggyness, and regular size not enough. If you need your eggs to come to room quick, set them in a bowl of hot water for a couple of minutes.

Oil or butter: I use canola but vegetable, grapeseed or even olive oil (if you like the taste) would be fine here.

Powdered sugar: organic or non organic is fine.

Yeast: one packet of instant yeast (7grams). If you need to sub with active dry add 1/2 tsp (25%) more and add it with the flour, skipping the proving step.

Chocolate: The creaminess of your chocolate will affect the ganache filling. If it’s very dark you’ll have to add a bit of heavy cream. If it’s less than 60% cocoa you might not. 

Cocoa: dutch process! It’s darker and more chocolatey.

Butter: Any should be fine.

Turbinado sugar: This is a minimally processed sugar and you don’t have to use it, but I like the way the big dark granules look on my bread. 

How to make milk bread babka

Make the dough

Start by making the tangzhong (roux): set the first portion of flour and the milk in a small pot and whisk to combine. 

 

Cook over medium low heat until thickened, then take the pot off the heat and let it cool 

Combine the yeast and water and a pinch of the sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer. Leave it for a few minutes to dissolve and foam. 

Add the greater portion of the flour, the sugar, eggs, salt, vanilla, and melted butter/oil. Away from the eggs, add the roux. 

Affix the dough hook and knead until the dough comes together around the dough hook and slightly cleans the sides of the bowl (it might not fully clear the bowl – it can be a sticky dough), this can take up to 10 minutes. 

Set the dough in an oiled bowl and cover. Let rise for a couple of hours at room temperature, or (preferably) an hour at room temperature and then overnight in the fridge. 

–> A colder dough is easier to work with – this can be a sticky one (it’s what makes it soft!). Even if you are doing a room temperature first rise, let the dough chill for a bit before you start shaping. 

Shape the Loaves 

Once the dough has doubled, make the filling: combine the butter, chocolate, powdered sugar, a pinch of salt, and cocoa in a pot. Set it over medium low heat and stir, once you have a loose filling take it off the heat. 

Prepare two standard size loaf pans (about 8-9 inches long, 4-5 inches wide) by greasing them with oil. 

Transfer the dough to a generously floured surface, and divide in half. Working with one half at a time, roll the dough into a 10 x 6 rectangle. 

Spread half of the chocolate mixture over the dough. 

Roll it up into a log and use a sharp chef’s knife to slice it down lengthwise. 

Twist the halves around each other and place the dough in one of the prepared pans. Repeat with the other half of dough. 

Gently lay a flour sack or a light dish cloth over the loaves and let rise for about an hour, until puffy and the dough doesn’t immediately bounce back when pressed. Preheat the oven to 375 F. 

Brush with egg wash (or not) and sprinkle with sugar (if you like). 

Bake for about 25 minutes, and check on the loaves: if they are browning too quickly, loosely lay a sheet of aluminum foil over them. 

Continue baking until a thermometer inserted into the middle center of the loaves reaches 190 F. 

Let cool briefly in the pan then transfer to a wire rack to cool fully.